Skid Steer Stump Grinder

A skid steer stump grinder takes a stump down below grade in minutes, with none of the digging, chaining, and backfilling that comes with pulling one out whole. The main choice is head style: a fixed head grinds in the machine's path and suits open ground, while a swing-arm head sweeps side to side so you can clear a wide stump without repositioning. Hydraulic flow is the other constraint: most heads want high flow, and low-flow models trade cutting speed for compatibility, so check your machine's rating first. We carry grinders for mini skid steers, full-size machines, and excavators, alongside our brush cutters.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Does a skid steer stump grinder need high-flow hydraulics?

Most do. Grinder heads turn a heavy cutting wheel through hardwood and grit, and that takes sustained flow to keep wheel speed up under load. High-flow machines handle the full range comfortably. Standard-flow machines aren't shut out, but you'll want a model specifically rated for low flow and you should expect slower cutting.
Check the head's required GPM against your machine's auxiliary output before ordering.

Fixed head or swing arm: which should I get?

A fixed head grinds straight ahead and you steer the machine across the stump, which is simple, cheaper, and fine on open ground where you can maneuver. A swing
arm pivots the cutting wheel side to side hydraulically, so you can clear a wide stump from one position and work close to fences, foundations, and landscaping. If
you're grinding in tight residential yards, the swing arm earns its price quickly.

How deep can a skid steer stump grinder go?

Most heads are built to cut several inches below grade, which is enough to plant grass or lay sod over the spot. Exact depth varies by model and by how you approach
the stump, since you're working the wheel down in passes rather than one plunge. If you need the area clear for a footing, a patio, or new construction, plan on
grinding deeper and check the individual model's rated cutting depth.

Can I grind a stump with a brush cutter or a bucket instead?

No, and trying it damages equipment. A brush cutter is built for standing material and its blades aren't designed to contact soil or hit rock at the base of a stump. A
bucket can dig around a stump but can't sever the root flare cleanly. A stump grinder uses carbide teeth on a wheel specifically to chew wood and tolerate the
occasional stone, which is why it's a separate tool.

How do I make the teeth last longer?

the wheel out of the dirt. Most tooth wear comes from grinding soil and stone rather than wood, so rake loose material away from the stump before you start and
take shallow passes instead of burying the wheel. Rotate or replace teeth on the manufacturer's schedule rather than running them to the nub, since dull teeth load
the drive motor and cost you more in hydraulic wear than a set of teeth costs.